Form

Form

Controller: Full name teachers…………..

Form

Controller: Full name teachers…………..

"Appendix 5.Test"

Test on the topic “Design and Modeling”

a) straight;

b) wedges;

c) diagonal;

d) conical;

e) extended;

e) narrowed.

2.

a) by neck circumference;

b) by chest circumference;

c) by hip circumference;

d) by waist circumference;

d) by height.

3.

a) Cr; b) Di; c)St; d) Sat; d) Op.

4.

a) in the seams;

b) in reliefs;

c) on coattails;

d) in folds;

d) in pockets.

5.An increase is:

a) the value required when processing the product with machine seams, expressed in centimeters and taken into account when cutting;

1.__________________

2.___________________

3.___________________

4.___________________

View document contents
"Lesson. Chubchenko N.I.”

Open lesson on technology in 6th grade. Teacher – Chubchenko Natalya Ivanovna

Subject. Generalization on the topic “Designing and modeling a skirt”

Goals:

Interdisciplinary connections: History, computer science, mathematics.

Visual aids, equipment, tools: training mannequin, skirt samples, measuring tape, skirt pattern, computer presentation.

During the classes

Organizing time:(Slide 1)

Greetings;

Checking student attendance;

Filling out the class journal by the teacher;

Get students in the mood for work (-As you can see, guys, we have guests today. Don’t worry, you know everything, you’re great)

Communicating the lesson plan to students.

New topic, lesson goals.

(Students assemble a topic from cut words. The children themselves set goals, and I lead them to this).

Nechaeva Yulia, Shilskaya Kristina, Yanchenko Vika – team “Igolochka”.

Borovitskaya Yana, Gladkaya Yulia - team “Nitochka”.

The topic of our lesson is hidden in a cut sentence; this task is on the tables in an envelope.
- Who will come up with the topic of the lesson faster?

(“Design and modeling of a skirt”) (Annex 1)

Based on the topic of today's lesson, what goals will be set for us?

What should we already be able to do in order to sew each skirt? (Be able to take measurements, make a drawing, model the product).

Lesson objectives:(Slide 2)

1. Be able to take measurements;

2.Build a drawing of the skirt;

3. Model the product.

And now Yulia Nechaeva will show us her presentation that she prepared about the history of the skirt and the direction of fashion.

Mini-presentation about the history of the skirt and fashion trends.(Presentation “History of the Skirt”)
(North by Yulia Nechaeva)

Blitz tournament.
-At home you picked up 4 questions from the history of the skirt.
-And now we have a blitz tournament. For each correct answer you will receive a skirt token. If a team cannot give the correct answer, then the question goes to another team.(Slide 3)

1). An exclusively female type of clothing, but besides women, this is also worn by Scottish highlanders? (skirt).

2). Clothes for leisure and beach. Are the trousers the shortest in length? (shorts)

3). The means by which the volume of a product is obtained? (darts)

4) In what century did the pattern become known? (10th century)

5). When did patterns in the modern sense appear? (19th century)

6). The birthplace of paper patterns? (England)

Home studio . (Slide 4)
-Are you tired yet? But still, let's warm up a little! Now we have a “Home Atelier”.

The work is organized in pairs: measured (customer), measured (cutter) and by alternating changes in responsibilities.

Records of measurements are made on pre-prepared forms ( Appendix 2)

“Give me a description of the skirt.” (Slide 5)
- On the slide, you guys see two options for the skirt. Your task: each team describe its version of the skirt. (On the left is the 1st team, and on the right is the second).

(Slide 6)

E
sketch and description of the model.

A
B

Blitz survey.

-Girls, soon each of you will be able to boast of a skirt that you will sew with your own hands. In order for a skirt to fit well, you must not only take measurements correctly, but you must also know the formulas for constructing a drawing and allowances for a loose fit.
-Let's check if you remember everything! (Slide 7)

(Di, Dst).

(So ​​that the product is loose enough and comfortable to wear Pt=1, Pb=3).

(Sat+Pb).

Why do they take Dst measurements? (The measurement is used to determine the distance from the waist line to the hip line (Dst: 2).

(St, Sat).

(Sat).

Which dart is the narrowest and shortest (front), and which is the longest and widest (side)?

A simple skirt with no darts and one or two pieces?

A skirt consisting of several wedges that widen at the bottom?

Slide with a drawing of a skirt.(Slide 8)
- Show and name the main construction lines in the straight skirt of the drawing. Here one team evaluates the work of the second team. The “Needle” team shows and names, and the “Thread” team evaluates.
- Let's check! (Slide 9)

(Slide 10) Two skirts appeared on the screen. Your task, using patterns, is to model the “Needle” - the first skirt, and the “Thread” - the second.

-Let's check! (Slide 11)

Career guidance moment.
-Okay, guys, we have determined this, but how many people do you think are involved in making the skirt? There are envelopes with the task on your table. Here are the encrypted words and names of the professions of the people who participate in the creation of the skirt.

Slide - definition of the profession guessed by the girls.(Slide 12)

Artist-fashion designer

Designer artist

Oh, you know what a fashion designer does.( An artist-fashion designer comes up with new clothing models and embodies them in sketches of finished products).

What is the task of the artist-designer? (The design artist embodies the ideas of the fashion designer into drawings and patterns).

You love making and solving crossword puzzles. Guess the crossword puzzle, who is faster. (Sheets with crossword puzzles are distributed. ( Appendix 3)

Crossword questions. (Slide 13)

The amount added to measurements (increase).

A specialist who develops a sketch, a model, taking into account the fashion trends in clothing (fashion designer)

Constructing a pattern drawing (design)

The process of changing a pattern drawing in accordance with the selected model (modeling)

The narrowest part of the body (waist).

A person’s ability to consciously judge the beauty of the nature around him, the beauty of things, people (taste).

The short-term dominance of certain forms, associated with the constant human need for variety and behavior (fashion).

-Let's check!(Slide 14)

-You have cards on your tables with clothing requirements and the properties of these requirements.
(Appendix 4)

Establish a correspondence between groups of clothing requirements and their properties

(connect with arrows).

(Self-check),(Slide 15)

-You worked productively today, the result will be a test. Each of you will complete it on a separate sheet. We will evaluate the work immediately - through mutual verification.(Appendix 5)

Correct option - look at the screen. (Slide 16)

Lesson summary.
- Count how many tokens each team has.
The winning team…………. You get A's, the team that lost to the winners gets a "4". The whole class is well done, I'm pleased with your work.

D/z: (Slide 17)
-Imagine yourself as fashion designers: draw a sketch of a skirt for certain occasions (holiday, uniform, home, sports, school).

(Slide 18)

"The Story of a Skirt"

Mid 19th century

View presentation content
"Technology Lesson"

6) The birthplace of paper patterns?

• Which measurements are recorded in full?
• Di, Dst
• Why are increases made and what types of increases are there?
• What parts does the skirt consist of?
• Front and rear panels. The back panel of the skirt is narrower than the front panel, because When sewing clothes, the side seam is located closer to the back, which significantly changes the posture of the figure, making it more slender and fit.
• What formula is used to calculate the width of the skirt?
• Sat+Pb
• Why do they take Dst measurements?
• When calculating the amount of darts on a skirt, are measurements taken into account?
• St, Sat
• ∑ =(Sat+Pb) – (St+Fri)
• The size of women's skirts and trousers is determined by what measurement
• lateral

1. Skirts by design are:

a) straight;

b) wedges;

d) conical.

2. The size of women's skirts and trousers is determined by:

c) by hip circumference.

3. When calculating the amount of darts on a skirt, the following measurements are taken into account:

c)St; d) Sat;

4. During the modeling process, darts on a straight skirt can be transformed:

b) reliefs;

c) on coattails;

d) in folds.

5.An increase is:

b) the amount added to the measurement size for the loose fit of clothing.

6.Use the base drawing to determine the corresponding name of the garment.

1 .__apron_____

2 .__conical_

3 ._wedge___

4.___straight__

View presentation content
"The Story of a Skirt"

Mid 19th century

By the 1870s, in order to change the silhouette of the figure, they acquired a bustle - a roller that was placed under the skirt below the waist from the back.

View presentation content
"Technology Lesson"

Generalization on the topic “Designing and modeling a skirt”

Technology lesson in 6th grade

Lesson objectives:

• Systematize and expand knowledge, skills, and abilities in designing and modeling skirts.
• Expand students' knowledge about clothing, taking measurements, designing skirts, and modeling.
• Develop the ability to compare, analyze, generalize, and draw conclusions.
• Improve your ability to work independently and in a team.
• Develop the skills to compare, analyze, generalize, and draw conclusions.
• Cultivate aesthetic taste and attention.

Blitz tournament

2) Clothes for leisure and beach. Are the trousers the shortest in length?

3) The means by which the volume of the product is obtained?

4) In what century did the pattern become known?

5) When did patterns in the modern sense appear?

6) The birthplace of paper patterns?

Home studio

Write a description of the skirt!

Blitz survey

• Which measurements are recorded in full?
• Di, Dst
• Why are increases made and what types of increases are there?
• So that the product is loose enough and comfortable to wear. Fri=1, Fri=3
• What parts does the skirt consist of?
• Front and rear panels. The back panel of the skirt is narrower than the front panel, because When sewing clothes, the side seam is located closer to the back, which significantly changes the posture of the figure, making it more slender and fit.
• What formula is used to calculate the width of the skirt?
• Sat+Pb
• Why do they take Dst measurements?
• The measurement is used to determine the distance from the waist line to the hip line.
• When calculating the amount of darts on a skirt, are measurements taken into account?
• St, Sat
• How to calculate the amount of darts for a straight skirt?
• ∑ =(Sat+Pb) – (St+Fri)
• How to calculate the side dart in a straight skirt?
• The size of women's skirts and trousers is determined by what measurement
• Which dart is the narrowest and shortest (front), and which is the longest and widest?
• lateral

Model a skirt!

Artist-fashion designer

Designer artist

Crossword

1. Short-term dominance of certain forms, associated with the constant human need for variety and behavior.

2. A value added to measurements.

3.The process of changing the pattern drawing in accordance with the selected model.

5. A person’s ability to consciously judge the beauty of the nature around him, the beauty of things, people.

Let's check!

1. Skirts by design are:

a) straight;

b) wedges;

d) conical.

2. The size of women's skirts and trousers is determined by:

c) by hip circumference.

3. When calculating the amount of darts on a skirt, the following measurements are taken into account:

c)St; d) Sat;

4. During the modeling process, darts on a straight skirt can be transformed:

b) reliefs;

c) on coattails;

d) in folds.

5.An increase is:

b) the amount added to the measurement size for the loose fit of clothing.

6.Use the base drawing to determine the corresponding name of the garment.

1 .__apron_____

2 .__conical_

3 ._wedge___

4.___straight__

Homework

Thanks everyone for the lesson!

The construction of a strict straight type skirt is based on straight lines. The elementary cut of the product allows you to model it by modifying fragments of the finished pattern.

Using technical and artistic techniques, the basic model is transformed into a number of other varieties of skirts.

blogspot.com

Modeling Features

The correct fit of the base skirt becomes the main criterion for the possibility of its further modeling. The cutting base can be cut along any lines. In the drawing, it is important to maintain the width of the waist area and the length of the product.

Basic methods of constructive modeling

• Transfer of darts.
• Changing the location of construction lines.
• Partial expansion of the product.
• Creation of a fundamentally new configuration.

Before modeling a drawing of a skirt based on a straight line, it is necessary to separate the front and rear panels from each other. Work on them is carried out one by one. The main methods of modifying a straight style (tapering, varying the level of length) are applied to specific types of skirts.

The simplest method of modifying a pattern is the formation of folds. They are created either on one of the panels or along the entire perimeter of the item.

A single fold on the product is made as a counter fold. It starts in the center of the front panel and is made up of two folds that have one side and are turned towards each other.

yoox.com

Constructing a pattern

1. From the center of the drawing at waist level, set aside 0.5 cm to the left.
2. Reduce the opening of the dart located in the immediate vicinity of the new point by the same amount (0.5 cm). This will allow you to keep the width of the product at the waist unchanged.
3. Combine the resulting measurement with the lower straight line reaching to the bottom. This line will mark the fold of one of the folds. It is necessary to start the fold at the waist so that it is sufficiently adjacent to the base.
4. Along the line from which the dart comes, draw a segment to the right equal to half the allowance required to form the fold.

The folds on this model come from the center of the skirt and cover both panels. These elements are combined with darts at the top of the product.

domremonta52.ru

Constructing a pattern

1. Draw a vertical line through the center of the dart in the drawing, dividing the structure in two.
2. Transfer the pattern fragments to a clean sheet of paper.
3. Separate the parts of the cut along the cut, forming an allowance for the future fold. If the folds have one side, the width of the allowance should reach 10 cm. The counter type of folds needs a larger width of the allowance.
4. Trace the details according to the new contours.
5. Create a pleated fold. Connect the points on the waist line with the center marks of the product using segments ending at the bottom edge.
6. Create a central fold.
7. The allowance for it in a long product should be larger.

Skirt with one counter and two one-sided pleats

1. Determine the location of the front fold, marked parallel to the middle of the front of the model at a distance of 12 cm from the center.
2. Move the dart at the waist to the fold area. To the right and left sides at waist level, set aside half the amount of the tuck solution. Mark the length of the dart.
3. According to the marks made, cut the front part of the cut. At the top, cut the pattern on both sides of the future dart.
4. Directly on the fabric, move the middle of the construction 12 cm from the cut formed by the fabric, folded in half, in the direction of the grain thread. This is necessary to create a counter-type fold.
5. Open the cut of the front part of the product to create a fold on one side.
6. Reduce the fold depth at the bottom by 1.5 cm.

Yoke fit

Straight skirt models are complemented by detachable yoke belts of various configurations and sizes. Such belts can be too high or too low. When the yoke is significantly lowered, an undercut is formed - an element that structurally and decoratively changes the product.

Constructing a pattern

1. The dart passing through the lower edge of the yoke is closed and secured with a pin until processing is completed.
2. The yoke detail is first outlined. It may vary depending on the selected model. Afterwards it is cut off according to the marks.
3. If the yoke does not reach the end of the dart or is located under it, the dart should either be extended or made shorter.
4. In this case, the formation of folds is also performed on the lower part. The pattern is cut along the fold marks and moved apart according to the intended allowances.
5. The bottom of the model is expanded by cutting and spreading based on the style. Decorative flounces can replace folds.

Relief

The product can be divided into elements, which are sometimes supplemented with flounces. Such elements create a relief on the surface of the model, structurally complicating and decorating it.

pinterest.ru

Constructing a pattern

1. Draw relief lines. The tuck along the axis is carried out vertically downwards.
2. Divide the base vertically, forming the required amount of relief of a certain width.
3. Connect the resulting marks with the solution of the existing darts.
4. Expand the canvas at the bottom. To do this, set aside about 3 cm on both sides.
5. Combine the resulting marks with the edge of the dart. You will get two skirt parts - side and front.
6. Provide the side part with pocket elements and shorten it at the bottom.
7. Draw vertical lines on the cut fragment and spread them apart to create a decorative assembly.

Straight cut and pleats

A model with an undercut, the top of which runs parallel to the waistline and is straight and is complemented by one-sided folds. The folded fragment comes out directly from under the cutting structure.

During cutting, the folded area is made in the form of a single fragment or made up of two parts. In both cases, the folds follow the inner pleated folds.

Half-sun wedges and rectangular undercuts

The style refers to the “gode” type model (with a sharp flare at the bottom). In the hem of the product, 4 cuts are made in the form of narrow rectangles. Wedge-shaped fragments, the configuration of which is called “half-sun”, are sewn into the trim pieces.

Figured assemblies

The silhouette of the product expands downward.

storesnew.ru

Constructing a pattern

1. Provide the front panel of the drawing with the bottom lines of a curly-type yoke.
2. Apply similar contours to the back part, matching the side construction marks of both parts of the cut.
3. Cut the frills according to a straight line. The width of the parts should exceed the lower cutting part by 3 cm.
4. The frills are cut at a 45-degree angle to the warp threads. The width of the elements is 3 cm greater than the cutting parts of the bottom of the model.

During modeling, a straight-cut product is complemented by drapery on the sides, acquiring a more solemn look.

revolveassets.com

Constructing a pattern

1. From the top edge of the drawing along the waist line, lay down a segment equal to the measurement of the width of the belt.
2. From the top of the dart, draw a straight line down to the place where the drapery will begin.
3. From the resulting point in the direction of the hip, draw a line marking the future undercut.
4. Mark the location of the cut for drapery.
5. Make similar changes to the cut of the back panel, making sure the side points are aligned.
6. There is no seam in the hip area on the drapery, since the parts will be one-piece. The presence of a seam on the side is possible in this case only if there is a high waistband.
7. Place the folds of the drapery with the folds facing up.
8. Sew the bottom of the drapery into the hem area.

Smell, hem and drape of the skirt

A straight silhouette item can be equipped with a folded front element and a clasp consisting of three buttons. In the fastener area there is an asymmetrical undercut and drapery placed underneath. The back of the pattern remains unchanged. The front panel is made up of two halves - a larger base and a smaller scent.

aws-service.ru

Constructing a pattern

1. From the upper edge of the dart of the smaller half of the front, lower the perpendicular until it intersects with the bottom line.
2. Both front panels are rounded at the bottom.
3. Draw an undercut for the future yoke. Close the dart on the yoke detail.
4. Mark the contours for expanding the bottom. They will run parallel to the middle of the front. Cut the pattern from top to bottom, spreading it to the required width. You will get an assembly for the yoke belt detail.
5. On the drawing of the smaller front fragment, at the level of the darts, draw a straight line along which the right side of the product will be applied - that is, the smell. Align the new contour with the side.
6. Smoothly complete the side detail at the bottom.
7. Make a hem-type selection with a width of about 7 cm. Their shape corresponds to the configuration of the sides of both front panels of the pattern.
8. Cut out a belt detail up to 10 cm wide. The length of the belt is equal to the waist circumference with the addition of a few centimeters. The cut is made perpendicular to the main thread.

Smell and waist gather

The product is asymmetrical in the fastener area. The smell is located in the front. The assembly from the waist line is performed on a smaller panel. The bottom of the scent is formed by a smooth line. The back in this case remains unchanged.

burdastyle.ru

Constructing a pattern

1. From the center mark of the front part to the right, measure the amount of smell. It is recommended to use the future element to cover the dart of a larger part.
2. Draw a perpendicular from it towards the bottom. The bottom of the smaller panel is rounded.
3. Spread the cut using parallel lines that should pass relative to the central mark.
4. Cut the pattern from the top.
5. Extend the waist area by the required amount. This parameter depends on the density of the assembly, which is assumed by the style of the product. The dart automatically becomes part of the assembly.
6. In the area of ​​the tuck of the wrapper detail, draw a straight line that will mark the location of the right side. He will have to close the dart. The bottom of the larger panel will remain straight.
7. Make a selection whose shape corresponds to the configuration of the smaller part of the model. The width of the part is about 7 cm. The hem of the second panel is made similar in width, stitched, equal in shape to the edges of the bead.
8. The product is complemented by a 10 cm wide belt. Its size must exceed the waist circumference.

Triangular yoke and counter pleat

1. Indicate on the drawing the location and size of the darts, leaving them unformed.
2. Determine the yoke marks.
3. Set aside 30 cm long segments from the outer marks downwards. Connect the new points to the upper outermost construction marks.
4. Move the edges of the darts to the yoke lines. Decorate the second side of the darts with a smooth outline.
5. Set aside 10 cm from the outer marks to the left and right sides. This will form the bottom of future folds.
6. Shape the upper sections in such a way that during processing they end up inside the seam for attaching the yoke.
7. In the area of ​​the cutting belt, form a soft folded row. Extend the cut according to each of the marks by 4 cm.

Additional modeling options

The undercut can be used twice as a modeling element. Symmetrical undercut fragments in the center of the product are supported by a fragment of counter-type folds.

season.ru

• The symmetrical undercuts located at the bottom of the model can be extended by using the back of the item.
• The pockets of the product are formed using undercuts. The waist area is provided with a soft pleated row.
• The asymmetrical drapery, slightly offset from the center of the model, is tied with a wide ribbon or decorative buckle.

Skirt with a counter pleat on the front panel

Build folds running from the middle of the skirt panels (Fig. 12.16, a) as follows: from the middle along the waist line (from point T 1 ) set aside 0.5 cm to the left and place point 1. By this 0.5 cm, it is necessary to reduce the opening of the nearby dart in order to maintain the width of the skirt along the waist line (in Fig. 12.16, b it is shown with a dotted line).

Connect the resulting point 1 to point B 1 straight line and continue it to the bottom line, thus obtaining a fold line of the fold, which is moved away from the vertical so that the fold fits better and does not diverge along the bottom line. Next draw line B 1 B 11 =1/2 fold allowance.

Skirt with three pleats on the front panel

It is better to align the direction of the fold lines located on both sides of the middle with the darts (Fig. 12.17). To do this, on a straight skirt pattern, draw a vertical line through the middle of the dart and cut the pattern into 2 parts.

Then place the pattern pieces on a clean sheet of paper, spreading them along the cut line for an allowance for the fold. For one-sided folds, the allowance is 8 - 10 cm; for counter folds, double the allowance. Trace the pattern details along the contours. To design the fold fold, points t and t 1 connect to points b and b 1 straight lines, continuing them to the bottom line, and place points H 2 and N 3 . Design the middle fold in the same way as in the previous model. If the skirt is long, the pleat allowance may not be sufficient and should be increased.

Skirt with a counter pleat and two one-sided pleats at the front

Use the base pattern for a straight two-seam skirt. Draw a fold line on the front panel (Fig. 12.18, b). It runs parallel to the line of the middle of the front panel of the skirt, at a distance of 12 cm from it. Move the waist dart into the fold. To do this, set aside half of the tuck solution to the right and left of the marked line along the waist. Then determine the length of the dart and design it. Cut the front panel of the skirt along the marked line and at the top along the sides of the dart. Further operations can be performed directly on the fabric during the cutting process. Move the middle of the pattern away from the fold of the fabric along the grain thread for the counter fold by 10 - 12 cm (Fig. 12.18, c). Extend the front panel pattern for a one-way pleat. Along the bottom line, reduce the depth of the fold by 1 - 1.5 cm. Allow seam and hem allowances. Cut the back panel according to the base pattern.

YOKETTE SKIRTS

Skirts with straight yokes

Depending on the model, skirts come in different yokes: very high (yoke-belt) and very low, that is, along the hips (Fig. 12.19, a, b). With further lowering of the yoke line, a so-called undercut is obtained, which can end with frills, flounces, folds, etc. Patterns for skirts with yokes are usually obtained based on a drawing of a straight or conical skirt. The sequence of constructing the yoke is as follows: if the line of the yoke passes through the end of the dart, then close the dart and fasten it with a pin. After this, draw a line for the yoke in accordance with the sketch of the model (Fig. 12.19, c). Then cut the yoke along the intended line (Fig. 12.19, d). If the yoke line does not reach the end of the dart or is below it, then lengthen or shorten the dart.
The lower part of the skirt can be folded. To do this, cut the lower part of the part along the marked lines of the folds and spread it apart to the allowance for the fold (Fig. 12.19, e). If you intend to make the lower part of the skirt flared, cut it and spread it along the marked lines as shown in Fig. 12.19, f. Instead of folds, you can make gathers and flounces.

Skirt with a triangular yoke and a pleat at the front

Use the straight skirt pattern. The yoke line can pass through the end of the dart, be located below or above it. If the yoke line extends above the end of the dart, you need to change the dart so that it does not extend beyond the yoke. Apply a yoke line to the pattern of the front half of the skirt, cut the piece and close the dart, bringing its sides closer together, but not overlapping each other. Decorate the cut of the yoke and the cut of the skirt fabric with a smooth line.

In the model shown in Figure 12.20, a counter fold goes down from the yoke. Place a double-depth fold parallel to the middle of the front, and so that it lies well, make the panel slant - 1.5 - 3 cm.

SKIRTS WITH RELIEF

Divide the base pattern of the straight skirt vertically, forming various reliefs on the front or back panels (Fig. 12.21, a). Align the relief lines with the dart solution and perform the work in the following sequence. Draw a line of relief (continue the axis of the dart vertically downwards). To expand the part along the bottom line in either direction, set aside 2.5 - 3 cm (Fig. 12.21, b). Connect the resulting points with straight lines to the end of the dart, smoothly moving into the sides of the dart. Cut the part along the marked lines (Fig. 12.21, c, d). This way you will get the side and front parts of the skirt. On the side of the part, draw pocket lines through points K and K 1 and along its bottom line (point K 1 ) cut the part. Apply vertical lines on the cut part, cut them and move them apart to form flounces or gathers (Fig. 12.21, e, f).

UNDERSKIRTS

Skirt with straight hem and pleats

In Fig. 12.22, and shows a skirt with an undercut on the front panel and one-sided folds coming out from under it. The sequence of making the pattern is shown in Fig. 12.22, b, c, d. The execution techniques are similar to the previous skirts. When cutting, a part with folds can be solid or consist of two parts, but the lines of their connection must pass through the internal folds of the folds.

Straight skirt with half-sun wedges in rectangular undercuts

Figure 12.23a shows a model of a skirt resembling a godet skirt. In its lower part there are 4 narrow rectangular undercuts into which half-sun wedges are sewn. Build the skirt pattern based on a straight skirt (see section ). How to do this is easy to understand by looking at Fig. 12.23, b, c.

MULTI-SEAM SKIRTS

Godet skirt

The godet skirt is one of the most elegant skirt models, and at the same time one of the most technologically complex. The godet effect - a sharp flare-like expansion from the knee line - is achieved by various modeling techniques. The godet wedge can be of various sizes and shapes (Fig. 12.24). In Fig. 12.25, and shows the construction of a pattern for one of the simplest models (Fig. 12.24, a). Draw it based on the pattern of a six-wedge skirt (see section, rice. 10.20).

The length of its wedge is 30 cm: KN 2 equal to 30 cm (Fig. 13.25, a). From point K with a radius equal to the segment KH 2 , draw an arc and set aside segment H 2 H 3 , equal to 12 cm. Points K and H 3 connect. Form the side cut of the wedge through the T points 2 b K and N 3 . Similarly, decorate the 2nd side cut of the wedge. To save fabric, the Godet wedge can be cut off (Fig. 12.25, b; model in Fig. 12.24, c). Cut out 6 cut-off Godet pieces and stitch each of them to its main wedge. Then connect 6 skirt wedges together (the wedge can be 1/4 of a circle - dotted line in Fig. 12.25, a - and can also be either one-piece or cut-off).
Look at Figures 12.26, a, b, they show options for wedge patterns for godet skirts, made a little differently (patterns are designed for size 48). These skirts have wedge seams that are smoother and easier to process (for details on sewing Gode skirts, see section ). Build it without widening at the bottom, you can choose any length - this skirt is good in both mini and maxi versions (Fig. 12.27, a). Draw 4 of the 8 wedges (Fig. 12.27, b), draw a hip line on them and make the following constructions (these constructions are designed for a short skirt).
From the hip line along the side line between the 2nd and 3rd wedges, set aside 18 - 20 cm, and at the bottom continue this line by 4 - 5 cm. Along the middle line of the 1st wedge, up from the bottom line, set aside 5 cm. Connect all the points obtained to the line hips of the 4th wedge, as shown in Figure 12.27, b. Divide the width of the 2nd and 3rd wedges into 4 parts each and draw vertical cutting lines. On the 1st cut line of the 3rd wedge, mark the notch - the beginning of the connection of the wedges. Cut out the resulting figured wedge, cut along the cut lines and move each of them apart by 3 cm (Fig. 12.27, c). Trace the new wedge on a piece of paper and don't forget to make a notch. The pattern is ready (Fig. 12.27, c). For a long skirt, the construction is exactly the same, only you need to take a longer wedge as a basis - instead of 18 - 20 cm down, set aside the measurement from the hips to the ankles or the floor.

A spiral skirt can be sewn from fabrics of several colors, alternating multi-colored wedges, or from thin fabric trimmed with lace or a narrow frill along the contour lines of the wedges, including the seams of their stitching.

FOR CERTIFICATION

Kholodnaya Alla Vladimirovna, labor education teacher,
Donetsk secondary school of I-III levels No. 119 MES DPR,

tel. 0955029379, e-mail: [email protected]

Labor training lesson in 6th grade

Topic: “Straight skirt modeling” (January-February)

Topic: “Modeling a straight skirt”

“Clothing is the simplest means of revealing personality.”
Sophia Loren

Goals:

1. Teach students modeling skills.

2. Develop logical thinking and design skills.

3. To cultivate aesthetic taste and attentiveness in students.

Lesson type: combined.

Form of study: game Bluff survey on the topic “Making a sewing pattern”, frontal survey, work in groups, individual work, practical work, drawing up a syncwine, game "Fashion Atelier", the use of a reflective screen.

Interdisciplinary connections : drawing, mathematics, fine arts, Russian language.

Technical training aids : laptop, projector, screen, presentation for the lesson, music.

Equipment, tools, materials : templates (front, back halves of the skirt), colored paper, glue, scissors, pencils, notebook, scale ruler, technological maps, instructions for making a syncwine.

During the classes

I. Organizing time.

Checking students' readiness for the lesson.

Organization of the workplace.

ІΙ. Updating of reference knowledge

2.1. Teacher:Beautiful and fashionable clothes, sewn with your own hands, bring joy. An interest in sewing is tantamount to a passion for music, drawing or other forms of art, when a person is not a professional, but knows many secrets of craftsmanship. As with any art, science or craft, it requires confidence and skill. We met some of them in the last lesson, let's remember them.

2.2 . Blitz survey “Making a sewing pattern” (in the form of a test). Complete the test task, select one answer option for each test question. For each correct answer 0.5 points ( you have 5 minutes to complete the work) - musical accompaniment.

As the work progresses, mutual checks are carried out. Test sheets are handed over to the teacher (mutual control ).

You passed the tests, nowremember and name the design lines in a straight skirt?

2.3. Task “Drawing up a pattern " The groups are given a pattern - a skirt pattern.

Exercise: indicate on the pattern all the design lines of the skirt.

Answer : middle part, dart, waist line, hip line, side line, bottom line, side dart.

Let's look at the screen and check if you have named all the construction lines.

II. Learning new material

3.1. Motivation for learning activities.

Time passes, century after century

The man was born for fashion.

The years have changed and so have the rhythms,

But we can’t live without a skirt.

Conversation:Children, do you agree with the statement that man is born for fashion and we cannot live without a skirt?

Student answers.

Today we will learn how to make a beautiful and fashionable skirt in our lesson.

3.2. Teacher:Announcing the topic and objectives of the lesson.

The topic of our lesson is “Modeling a straight skirt”

1. Open your notebooks and write down the topic of the lesson

3.3. Expected results (lesson objectives)

1. At the end of the lesson you will be able to:

Name ways to model skirts;

Fulfill

2. Be able to:

Change the width of the skirt along the hemline by narrowing and closing the dart;

Model a skirt with a yoke on the front panel;

Using additional parts, create new styles of skirts.

3. Express your attitude to the modeling process.

3.4 . Working with Concepts.

Modeling - this is the process of developing product patterns based on a finished model or its graphic image (writing definitions in notebooks).

When modeling clothes, the objects are style and silhouette (writing definitions in notebooks).

Style - a sample according to which the product is sewn.

Silhouette – the outer contour of the clothing form, its flat image.

3.5. Teacher (conversation).

Before you start modeling, answer the question: What is needed when modeling clothes? We must take into account the features of our appearance: figure, height, what else? Besides this, we must choose the material, finish, and what else? And ultimately correspond to the trends of modern fashion, meet its purpose and the purpose of the clothing. In this regard, we model clothes.

Answer:You need to dress taking into account the color of your hair and eyes, cut, and the garment must correspond to its purpose.

Teacher:Based on the drawing of a straight skirt, you can model a huge number of skirt styles: narrow and wide, long and short, with yokes, slits, folds (Modeling of different styles).

Based on the skirt pattern (front and back panels), you can develop different cuts of products. Fashion designers do this work, and today in the lesson each of you will act as a fashion designer.

3.6. Game "Fashion Atelier"

Using a mock-up of a straight skirt pattern, using additional details, students must create a new skirt style (work on a magnetic board)

Teacher:Look how from a straight skirt with the help of additional details and elements we got new styles of skirts. At the same time, we took into account the individual characteristics of the person, everyone selected their own style. So modeling is a process creative and individual.

IV. Practical work. “Skirt modeling. Calculation of the amount of fabric needed to sew a product »

4.1. Safety instructions when working with scissors and glue

Teacher:Let's review the rules for working safely with scissors and glue.

Rules for safe work with scissors:

1. Use scissors with rounded ends.

2. Store the scissors in the specified place in a certain position.

3. When working, carefully monitor the cutting direction.

4. Do not use blunt scissors or loose hinges.

5. Do not hold scissors with the blades facing up.

6. Do not leave scissors with open blades.

7. Don't cut with scissors on the go.

8. Do not approach your friend while working.

9. Pass the closed scissors to your friend, rings first.

10. While working, hold the material with your left hand so that your fingers are away from the scissor blades.

Rules for safe work with glue

1. When working with glue, use a brush if necessary.

2. Take the amount of glue that is required to complete the job at this stage.

3. Remove excess glue with a soft cloth or napkin, gently pressing it.

4. Wash your brush and hands well with soap after work.

Teacher:In this lesson we will look at several ways to model skirts. Since when constructing the drawing of a straight skirt, drawings of the front and rear panels were obtained, therefore, for modeling, these parts need to be divided (cut) and each panel modeled. We will also learn how to calculate the amount of fabric needed to sew a product.

4.2. Let's consider the first modeling method “Narrowing the skirt along the hemline”

Progress.

4.2.1.Teacher briefing

1. In the drawings of the front and rear panels from the side cut side, reduce the width of the skirt along the bottom line by the desired amount, for example, by 3 cm (points H3 and H4).

2. Then, connect points H3 and H4 with points B2 and B2.

3. Trace the outline along new lines.

4. Trim off the excess parts of the pattern.

5. Refer to technological map No. 1.

6. Take the templates for the front and back panels of the skirt and start working according to the sequence of operations

4.2.2. Doing practical work.

4.2.3. In your notebooks, write down 1 modeling method, which is called “Narrowing the skirt along the bottom line.” Now glue the resulting parts into your notebook.

4.3. Teacher:Let's get acquainted with the second modeling method - “Expanding a straight skirt by closing darts”

The slightly widened straight skirt is very comfortable to wear.

This expansion can be easily accomplished by closing the darts on the main straight skirt drawing.

Progress.

4.3.1.Teacher briefing

1. Draw vertical straight lines along the center lines of the darts of the front and back panels until they intersect with the bottom line and cut the patterns along these lines without reaching the end of the darts 0.1 cm.

2. Pull apart the patterns at the bottom until the darts are completely closed

3. Create a smooth curve for the bottom line.

Do you have any questions about this method?

If there are no questions, then let’s proceed to practical work using this modeling method:

4. Open technological map No. 2.

5. Take the templates for the front and back panels of the skirt and start working according to the sequence of operations with
1st point (you have 3 minutes to complete the work).

4.3.2. Doing practical work.

4.3.3. In your notebooks, write down the 2nd modeling method, which is called “Expanding a straight skirt by closing darts” and glue the resulting details into your notebook.

4.4. Teacher:Let's get acquainted with method number 3 - "Skirt with a yoke on the front panel"

Yoke - This is a decorative element of clothing. A skirt with a yoke is more attractive and interesting. The yoke can be made from fabric of a different color. Below the yoke, it is possible to make folds, gathers or pleating according to the style. The yoke is easy to make by closing the darts on the main drawing of a straight skirt .

Progress.

4.4.1. Teacher briefing.

1. On the straight skirt pattern, determine the yoke line of the desired size and cut it off.

2. Connect the yoke parts along the dart line.

3. Draw vertical straight lines along the center lines of the darts of the front and back panels until they intersect with the bottom line and cut the patterns along these lines, not reaching the end of the darts 0.1 cm.

4. Pull apart the patterns at the bottom until the darts are completely closed.

5. Create a smooth curve for the bottom line.

Do you have any questions about this method?

If there are no questions, then let’s proceed to practical work using this modeling method:

6. Open technological map No. 3.

7. Take the templates for the front and back panels of the skirt and start working according to the sequence of operations with
1st point (you have 5 minutes to complete the work)

4.4.2. Doing practical work.

4.4.3. In your notebooks, write down the 3rd modeling method, which is called “Skirt with a yoke on the front panel” and glue the resulting details into the notebook.

4.5. Teacher (conversation): Guys, look how the skirt has changed! Which one did you like best? How has the style changed? Sophia Loren believed that clothes are the simplest means of revealing personality. Therefore, when modeling it is necessary to take into account the features your appearance: figure, height, hair and eye color, as well as cut, choice of material, finishing. The product must correspond to the trends of modern fashion, meet its purpose and at the same time create a new image.

4.6. Teacher. Calculation of the amount of fabric required for sewing a product (based on different fabric widths)

4.6.1. Teacher's story.

The fabric consumption for a skirt depends on the style of the skirt, width and fabric treatment.

The simplest calculation for straight skirts is performed using the formula:

Du + 10 cm,

where Dyu is the length of the skirt, for processing (with a fabric width of 140 cm) (1).

For conical skirts there is a different formula:

Du + From + 5 cm,

where Du is the length of the skirt. From – waist circumference) (2).

If the width of the fabric is 80-90 cm, then (formula values ​​1 and 2) are multiplied by 2.

Let's carry out a more detailed calculation of the fabric consumption required for sewing a skirt.

For example: to sew a straight skirt of size 46, length 40 cm, with a fabric width of 150 cm, you need:

1. Size 46 means that Sb = 46 cm. Due to the width of the mesh, BB1 will be
Sat + Pb = 46 + 2 = 48 cm.

2. Add seam allowances on the sides 2 seams x 3 cm = 6 cm, then half the width of the fabric is 48 + 6 = 54 cm.

3. The full width of the skirt is 2 times greater than 55 x 2 = 110 cm. This width runs along the width of the fabric.

4. On the side - the remainder for the belt 150 - 110 = 40 cm.

5. Skirt length - 40 cm. Add 5 cm for hemming the bottom and 1.5 cm for processing the top cut. We get 40 + 5 + 1.5 = 46.5 cm.

This means that we need 47 cm to sew a skirt of size 46 with a length of 40 cm, which fully corresponds to formula (1).

4.6.2. Problem solving

Each group is given an envelope with the task: to calculate the amount of fabric needed to sew the product.

Task No. 1. How much fabric 1.5 m wide is needed to sew a straight skirt, size 48, 50 cm long.

Solution :

1) For size 48 Sat. = 48 cm. BB1 = 48 + 2 = 50 cm.

3) Full width 56 x 2 = 112 cm - runs across a fabric width of 150 cm.

4) Remaining for the belt 150 - 112 = 38 cm.

5) Fabric length Du + 5 + 1.5 = 50 + 5 + 1.5 = 56.5 cm.

Answer:You need 57 cm of fabric with a width of 150 cm to sew a straight skirt of size 48 with a length of 50 cm.

Task No. 2.How much fabric is needed, 90 cm wide, to sew a straight skirt, size 48, 50 cm long.

Solution:

1) For size 48 Sb = 48 cm. BB1 = 48 + 2 = 50 cm.

2) Seam allowances 50 + (2 x 3) = 56 cm - half the width of the fabric.

3) Full width 56 x 2 = 112 cm - the full width of the skirt, so more than 90 cm, i.e., 2 lengths are needed.

4) Fabric length Du + 5 + 1.5 = 50 + 5 + 1.5 = 56.5 cm. 56.5 x 2 = 113 cm of fabric. Belt from the side.

Answer:To sew a skirt of size 48, length 50 cm, you need 113 cm of fabric with a width of 90 cm.

V. Generalization, systematization of students' knowledge and skills.

5.1. Work in groups. Modeling skirts (task using cards).

Each group chooses 2 task cards (per group) with skirt models.

Task: perform modeling of given styles (you have 5 minutes to complete the work) - musical accompaniment.

5.2. Teacher Targeted Walkthrough

The teacher walks around the students, monitors and gives them advice, and checks that the work is being done correctly.

5.3. Project demonstration (students demonstrate the resulting model and explain the modeling process).

The teacher evaluates the completed drawings of skirt models, notes the best work, points out shortcomings and errors, and notes the reasons for their occurrence.

VI. Summing up the lesson.

Teacher:Today in the lesson we learned the basic ways of modeling a straight skirt, learned how to calculation of the amount of fabric needed to sew a product.

6.1. I suggest you make a syncwine about modeling. On your desk there is a memo on how to compose a syncwine, remember the rules for compiling it, and like this:

SINQWAIN is a short literary work characterizing a subject (topic), consisting of five lines, which is written according to the following rules:

Line 1 – one noun expressing the main theme of the syncwine.

Line 2 – two adjectives expressing the main idea.

Line 3 – three verbs describing actions within the topic.

Line 4 is a phrase that carries a certain meaning.

Line 5 – conclusion in the form of a noun (association with the first word).

Making cinquain is very simple and interesting. And besides, working on creating a syncwine develops imaginative thinking.

Keyword:

MODELING

creative, individual

decorates, changes, takes into account

creates a new image

CREATION

6.2. Reflection. Teacher: Now let’s share our impressions of our lesson. Each of you will complete the sentence.

The guys take turns speaking in one sentence, choosing the beginning phrases from the reflective screen.

1. today I found out...

2. it was interesting...

3. it was difficult...

4. I completed tasks...

5. I realized that...

6. now I can...

7. I felt that...

8. I purchased...

9. I learned...

10. I did it...

11. I was able...

12. I'll try...

13. I was surprised...

14. gave me a lesson for life...

15. I wanted...

VII. Homework ( diary entry).

Make a pattern for a straight skirt on a scale of 1:1 on paper. Homework instructions.

VIII. Psychological mood of the lesson.

And now I invite you to express your opinion about the lesson. Each person has colored stripes on their tables that match the color of the rays of the sun. Take a strip of the color that matches...

"Sun" .

Yellow – I really liked the lesson, I learned a lot of interesting things.

Blue – the activity was not interesting, there was no useful information.

Children get up and glue rays to the sun.

Remember:“Everything in a person should be beautiful: face, clothes, soul, and thoughts” (A.P. Chekhov).

Thank you for your work, I wish you creative success!

Literature:

1. Technology: Textbook for 6th grade students of secondary schools (option for girls) / ed. V. D. Simonenko. – M.: Ventana-Graf, 2005.

2. Technology: Textbook for students of general education institutions (option for girls) / V.D. Simonenko, O.A. Kozhina, Yu.V. Krupskaya; etc. / ed. V.D. Simonenko. - M.: Ventana-Graf, 2005.

3. Modern encyclopedia. Volume “Fashion and Style” / ed. V. Volodina, A. Chernova. - M.: Avanta +, 2002.

4. Technology. Grade 6: Lesson plans based on the textbook “Technology Grade 6”, ed. V. D. Simonenko. / Comp. O. I. Pavlova - Volgograd: Teacher - AST, 2006.

The ability to model allows you to sew several completely different skirts using one pattern option. If you love to dance, then the patterns of gypsy and Spanish skirts will allow you to sew your own outfit for performances. And if you just follow fashion, or prefer your own, purely individual style, then this section will help you always look fashionable and stylish. Moreover, using this skill, you can sew an exclusive dress. There are many styles of skirts: godet, flared, sun, pleated, pleated, Scottish, spiral, mini, midi, maxi, and skirt patterns will allow you to realize any designer's fantasies. Below are very interesting and practical options for skirt patterns: straight skirt patterns, “Godet” skirt patterns, “Sun” skirt patterns, straight skirt patterns with a flyaway cape, wrap skirt patterns, skirt patterns with a frilled mould, skirt patterns with an undercut and drapery etc. which are easy to sew and pleasant to wear.

Taking measurements

In mass sewing production, ready-made tables are used to create pattern drawings, which contain measurements of the necessary parameters of typical figures. For individual tailoring, the use of such tables is inappropriate, since more accurate and detailed data is required: Another system is used here - calculation and measurement, which is based on measuring distances between certain points of the human body. These distances are called measures.

To take measurements, you must have a measuring tape, a pencil and a notebook. In this case, it is necessary to comply with certain requirements: the person from whom measurements are taken must stand relaxed, with a straight posture and arms down along the body; the legs should be brought together at the heels, and the toes should be slightly turned outward (with the slightest deviation to the sides, the measurements may turn out to be inaccurate); When measuring measurements, the centimeter tape should not be tightened or, conversely, loosened; In order to eliminate distortion of readings, it is advisable to take measurements using underwear.

Remember! The accuracy of the pattern drawing and, consequently, the appearance of the product you sew depends on the correctness and accuracy of the measurements you take.

However, that's not all.

To draw a skirt drawing, you need to take into account what type of physique your figure belongs to. If you have a standardly built figure (smoothly wavy back, position of the protruding points of the shoulder blades and buttocks at the same level relative to the vertical, moderate notch of the waist and protrusion of the buttocks, normal hip width), then to draw a drawing of the skirt you need the following measurements

Straight two-seam skirt

Despite the variety of this or that skirt, the straight two-seam one is the basis for constructing many models. This skirt exists perfectly as an independent product and as an integral part of many costumes. It is not without reason that it is one of the classic models and therefore has rightfully been at the peak of fashion for several decades. It is suitable for women of any age category, and will also be appropriate for both special occasions and everyday wear. This skirt can be sewn from almost any type of fabric. However, it is not recommended to sew it from checkered fabrics, since adjusting such a pattern is quite difficult. If you decide to sew a skirt made of striped fabric, then when cutting it is necessary to maintain the symmetry of the pattern on the front and back panels. A straight two-seam skirt without widening at the bottom will look a little narrowed. Therefore, it is not recommended for women with low hips.

BUILDING A DRAWING OF THE CONSTRUCTION OF A STRAIGHT DOUBLE-SEAM SKIRT

To construct a drawing (Fig. 14), the following measurements of the figure are necessary: ​​waist circumference (Wt), hip circumference (C6) and product length (L) - And you also need to know the amount of increase for a loose fit along the waist line (Wt) and line hips (P6). For all sizes they are equal:

Fri = 0.7-1.0 cm, Pb = 1.5-2.0 cm.

In what follows, we will call the necessary measurements and additions “initial data.”

For convenience of construction and calculations, we will take the measurements of a typical figure; St = 38 cm, Se = 52 cm, Dt = 75 cm.

We construct a right angle with the vertex at point T. The segment TN corresponds to the length of the skirt and is the middle of the front panel. The segment TB determines the position of the hip line and is equal to 13.5-19.5 cm. We draw lines through the obtained points B and H perpendicular to the straight line TN. From point B along the hip line we lay off a segment equal to the measurement of the half-circumference of the hips (C6) plus an increase for a loose fit along the hips (Pb), and place point B1

BB 1 = C6 + Pb = 52 + 2 = 54 cm.

Through point B 1, draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line at point T1 and the bottom line at point H1. This straight line is the middle of the rear panel. From point B to the right along the hip line we put BB2

BB 2 = BB1/2 - 1 = TT2 = NN2

Through point B 2 we draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line at point T2 and the bottom line at point H2.

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